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CAMERA PROBES / PICKS / PUNCHES / SCRIBES

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This is the MOODY TOOL Precision Probe, 55-1751. You only need one probe to work on cameras. You can buy a Probe set, but it's usually a waste of money. I work with only one probe on my work desk.



This is the Moody Tools 58-0226 4-Piece Magnetic Handle Scriber Pick Set. A Probe looks like a Pick, but the Pick is much thicker and stronger. You need a pick to open the camera film door when the rewind shaft is removed. It takes a lot of force to release the film door and a Probe will break its tip, and that’s why you need a Pick. I work with one pick on my work desk.



This is a 9-piece Roll Pin Punch Set and 1 Double faced mallet, Hand Pin Remover Tool for Jewelers, Watch Makers, Repairs and Crafts. I don’t use a punch often on a camera, and when I do it’s usually the same small punch to remove a pin or a stripped screw. This punch set will have what you need.



The camera repairman needs both a steel block and a wooden block in his repair work. He uses the wooden block when he doesn't want the camera part to be dented/flattened on the back side. He uses the steel block when he needs a hard flat surface to straighten out a bent camera part. This is a 2 inch steel block. The smaller your steel block is the better. Having enough desk space is always a problem. Keep tools small.



This Wood Dapping Block is made for jewelry making, but it also comes in handy for camera repair. Sometimes I need to hammer on a part, but I don’t want a surface pressing on the backside. The dapping block has other uses during camera repair when a steel block is just too damaging to the surface of a camera part. I can't give you all the examples, but you will need a soft wooden block for your camera work. I use several all the time.



I own one of these Hexagonal Mini Steel Anvils and find it very useful for removing pins and reshaping bent camera parts. It's best to use a brass hammer.



This is a Diamond Tipped Scribe, 7 Inches | SCB-431.00. I rarely use a scribe on camera bodies, but I always use a scribe when working on lenses. Those small timing marks can save you hours of time during reassembly.



I own a set of these Needle Files. There are needle files on Amazon that cost a lot more, but these well get the job done. I tend to use needle files when the Dremel tool is too aggressive in removing metal from a camera part. Sometimes I just need to remove a rough edge on a camera part or some corrosion and the needle files allow you to have more control over the process.